Roaming Quito

I was never so happy to escape the confines of anything as I was to push the ejection button in that taxi from Otovalo!  We checked into our comfy, European style “Hostal de La Rabida” here in Quito two days ago, and have enjoyed lovely, warm weather at this 2,700 meter (10,000 foot) city.  Quito’s population is about 1.5 million, and it really is a city of perennial spring.  Flowers bloom year round, and the fresh fruit and juices every morning don’t need to travel further than a couple of hours from the coast.  Here in the city, we’ve had 80 degree weather, and hats and sunblock are a must at this altitude.

Quito stretches along a plateau in a mountain valley surrounded by 4,000+ meter volcanos.  We had plenty of arial views yesterday, beginning with a gondola ride up to 14,000 feet, overlooking the valley.  The wind was quite brisk up there and I bet the temp dropped at least 20 degrees.  We stayed long enough to capture some of the breathtaking views, and doing our best to capture our own breaths!

Pinchincha Ruku

At 14,000 feet

The mountain in back of the viewing platform and trail is called Pinchincha Ruku, and can be hiked in about 3 hours each way, if you have the lung capacity.  Intrepid travelers sometimes take tents and sleeping bags up and camp there as well (bracing for some chilly nights, I’m sure).

Coming down the gondola, we chatted with an Ecuadorian university student whose father had just returned from Gonzaga University, studying English (small world).  We had enough in common that she gave us a lift back to our hotel on her way to a communications class. Maria Elena completed her senior year of high school in Germany, and her parents are hoping that her younger sister will have an opportunity to study in Washington her senior year.

Our afternoon was spent walking, touring the historic Old Town on a double decker bus, and enjoying the incredible seafood that abounds here (trout from the lakes and sea bass and shrimp from the coast).  The Old Town dates back to the 1500’s when the Spanish so rudely shouldered the indigenous people further up into the mountains.  The architecture is amazing, and the government has done an excellent job of maintaining the structures.

Old Town Street

Old Town, Quito

Otovalo to Quito

Otovalo, Cotacachi, indigenous people, crisp mountain air from the Andes.  Three days of heaven in our little Posada del Quinde (Inn of the hummingbirds).  We arranged a ride back to Quito on a private transport in an attempt to avoid the uncomfortable bus seats and long (3.5 hours) journey that we’d experienced coming up the mountain.

We bade farewell to Lourdes, Susie and the rest of the staff as we waited for our ride to arrive from Ibarra.

Posada del Quinde girls

We assumed it would be a van of some sort with 4 to 6 passengers.

Our jaws dropped when we saw a small taxi about the size of a Prius pull up with the driver and 2 passengers already aboard.  The driver and the staff helped up put our 2 small but heavy bags in the tiny hatchback and I climbed in the back seat (middle row!) between two disgruntled looking men.  I wasn’t going to let John take the back, so he got the front seat.

Off we went, down the mountain for about 100 kilometers (65 miles, mas or menos).  We followed lumbering trucks, buses, and other taxis most of the way down the two-lane highway to Quito.  About half way through the ride, the curves became quite intense, and my main concern was to keep from letting the driver hurl me against one or the other of my “sidekicks”.  When the driver stopped for gas, I made John get me some ibuprofen and I got my sunglasses out, thinking I could drug my way out of this situation.  No sleep for the wicked!

As we careened down the mountain, my backseat companions remained silent, although I had tried to make a pleasantry to one, that the car was “muy pequeneo”.  The driver was quite cautious, not passing on the curves, which I think, drove him batty.  He barreled down the road when he could, like there was, 1) a hit man after him, or 2) he was the hit man after someone else.

We finally came into the outskirts of Quito and the road became four lanes, with the traffic picking up significantly.  We were quite obviously no longer in the rural areas of Otovalo.  Now instead of dodging drivers coming at us, our driver began scooting between buses, cars and other vehicles moving in our direction.  I was so amazed to see no fender benders, or cars bearing witness to such.  I commented to John that this seemed no easier than the bus.  His reply was, “Oh, this is much better”.  “For you!”, came my retort.

As we became part of the red taillight, breaking, cacophony, I happened to glance up and, in the second floor of a triangular intersection, was an apartment with a large glass window.  Looking down on all of our chaos was a singular, observant cat.  Somehow, between that moment and our drop-off at the Hostal de la Rabida, I was able to embrace a moment of continuity in our sometimes-chaotic universe.

Cotacachi, Ecuador

This morning we got up and took a van further up into the mountains to a little burg called Cotacachi.  We climbed a steep, winding road up into the verdant hills, with scattered plots of gardens (mostly corn) and tile roofed homes. When we arrived in Cotacachi, our attention focused on the wide walkways, one way streets, clean storefronts, and seeming prosperity of the town.  Once our driver turned us loose, we understood why.  This is the leather capital of South America.  Everything from saddles, to saddle bags, to gloves, jackets, you name it, is there for the purchase, in quite high quality.  The fact that the Ecuadorian currency is the US dollar made our decison-making easier (maybe not the $400 bag).  John however, came away with a good bargain on a shoulder tote for his ipad, and I scored a dynamite pair of boots!  After a great lunch at the Cafe Tourista (really we were the only tourists in there, and $2 hamburgers to die for!), we boarded our chariot and headed back down the mountain back to Otavalo.

After a siesta, we again called on Henry (our driver–takes you anywhere for $12/hour) to take us up to the Parque Condor overlooking the Otovalo Valley.

View of Otovalo on the road to Parque Condor

The road was very steep and windy (as are all roads leading out of Otavalo).  The park is a raptor rehabilitation center founded by the Dutch government and helps to educate locals on the importance of keeping their raptors healthy.

Andean condor

We photographed many raptors in the care of the center, and some stellar views of Volcan (volcano) Imbabura

Volcan Imbabura

are to be had from this arial perch on the side of the mountain.

Otovalo Market

Doll seller

I’ll probably sound like I’ve been drinking too much coca mate when you read this, but this high altitude environment is amazing.  We walked to the Saturday market this morning and didn’t know where to stop taking pictures.  The colors are amazing and the indigenous people so calm and self-possessed (except when they are sharing a joke in Quetchua, their native language) with Europeans and other interlopers!  Here is a photo of Otolavo market day, Jan 26, 2013. If I can figure out how to post more without screwing up the font formatting, I sure will!

We didn’t buy much at the market–just a scarf, a shirt for Juan and a doll.  Baggage space, remember.  But we did go up the hill to Agato to visit Miguel Andrango in his home and studio.  He is Ecuador’s most famous weaver, and rightly so.  He uses only backstrap looms to create some of the most intricate and colorful weavings, all with yarns he has spun and dyed with natural dyes.  I asked him how he learned and he said from his father, who learned from his father.  And of course, Miguel has taught his kids the art.

That’s all I can do tonight–so many photos and trying to figure out how to wrap text has been a huge issue for me!!  Thanks for reading and following our travels!

Miguel at his spinning wheel

Miquel and Teresa

A small sample of Miguel’s weavings

Otovalo arrival

Mural on school

Hello faithful bloggers!  John and I boarded a bus to Otovalo this afternoon (I was really hoping we could get a van or car), but after a short, 2-hour ride, we were deposited in the middle of this beautiful valley in a town of about 300,000.   The air is fresh, and the altitude is high (about 11,000 feet).  Caught a cab to our lovely hotel, Posada del Quinde, which means hummingbird hotel.  There are bird baths and birding books that tempt the causal birder to spend all your time here following these creatures.  Birds in general, are very easy to hear and see up here, even if you can’t identify their names.

Posada de Quinde

We decided to walk up to the market this afternoon and find a mercado for some wine and snacks before we came back for dinner.  The Otovalenos were setting up for the big Saturday market tomorrow, which is quite the production.  I bought a cute sun hat (Dr. L will be very happy), and scoped out some merchandise I’d love to take home with us.

I do need to remind myself that this is really the first day of the trip, but I am sure we will not see a market like this in any of our other stops.  Beautiful scarves woven of alpaca, darling dolls and 95o silver jewelry you can’t find in the states.  My roller suitcase and backpack already weigh more than they should, so I have to be judicious!  I’ll update you tomorrow after the market and a visit to one of the indigenous weavers homes……

Ecuadorian rugs

Quito landing!

It’s a long jaunt from Bellingham, WA to Quito, Ecuador!  We left Bellingham at 9:00 Wednesday morning, slept in the Miami Airport Hotel last night, and arrived in Quito at 7:30 this evening.  There’s been some rain, but nothing while we were out to dinner tonight, and the air is as “fresca” as I remembered it being when mom and I were here 20 years ago!

We had a great interlude with my friend, Lisa Imel, from Fulbright Argentina 2010 when she was a school administrator in Ohio, and I was in Mount Vernon.  She’s now living the sunny life in Palm Beach, and took the time to come have breakfast with us in the Miami hotel restaurant this morning!  

Tonight’s arrival in Quito found us in a quaint little Italian restaurant in the Mariscal section.

Tomorrow morning we head out in a collectivo into the Andes around Otovalo.  I expect we’ll have some real photo ops, since I remember the indigenous people weave all their own clothing and wear it with pride–lots of colors!  Lonely Planet’s South America on a Shoestring has been a great resource, although we agree, we’re going to have to start finding some more reasonable eateries.  Most of our lodging includes breakfast, so if we can do that and find a cafe frequented by locals, it will be much easier on the pocketbook.

So far (knock on wood), no altitude sickness, even though we are at 9,000 feet and will be going to 12,000 tomorrow.  The advice is to leave the more strenuous treks for a day or two after you have acclimated.  I’ll post more photos and notes from the mountains tomorrow!

Antoinette Family Winery, MENDOZA, Argentina

We will be visiting Betiana’ s family winery in MENDOZA and enjoying dinner in their hacienda.  I met them a couple of years ago and it will be great for John to have the opportunity!

Our South America Itinerary

As you can see, we begin in Quito Ecuador on January 24 and continue south until we reach Punta Arenas, Chile,  February.  We are prepping hard, with skiing Mount Baker the closest we can get to simulating the Andean highlands.