Rounding the corner: Mississippi and Louisiana

We headed west out of Carrabelle, FL, and after a quick stop at an Alabama Ford service department for needed maintenance, headed to the Gulf Islands National Seashore in Mississippi. We had reservations at the Davis Bayou campground, just outside of Ocean Springs, MS. The National seashore stretches 160 miles along the northern coast of the Gulf of Mexico in Florida and Mississippi. Long narrow barrier islands protect the marshlands on the coastline of the mainland. In the middle of a quite busy Gulf Coast scene sits a respite of calm and nature.

Gator in Davis Bayou

We camped quite close to an alligator pond where several alligators live in their natural habitat.

 

Our weather was hit and miss, as it had been in Florida. All the locals were exclaiming that this winter has been much “harder” than it was last year, although we had some 70+ degree days.

Our first Marti Gras experience occurred in Ocean Springs, MS, a quaint little town on the Mississippi coastline.

John and Teresa at Ocean Springs Marti gras parade

We trekked into town the Friday before Fat Tuesday and cauptured more than our share of beads!

We took a couple of afternoons to explore the art scene in Ocean Springs and nearby Biloxi. Several rather well-known artists have decided to call this area of Mississippi home. The Ohr-O’Keefe Museum of Art was wonderful with construction underway, but many wonderful installations in place. Another small and wonderful exhibit amongst this enclave of artists, was the Walter Anderson Museum of Art. He was probably the equivalent of John Muir in the art world. We biked the town, our friends the Hollands put in their kayaks in the bayous, and we

Mississippi Sandhill Cranes

took an incredible trip out to the Mississippi Sandhill Crane Wildlife Refuge.

 

These gorgeous cranes had been decimated to about 30 or 35 due to feather harvesting and farming. Now the numbers are hundreds more, amazing since they only lay one or two eggs every 3 to 4 years. This management on the part of the state and federal government has been a concerted effort to improve the native habitat of their savannah breeding grounds.

 

Steve and John at 100 Men Music Hall, Gulfport, MS

After a week or so, we left Ocean Springs and traveled down the gulf coast through Gulfport, Pass Christian, and Bay Saint Louis. OMG, if I had another pass at the gulf coast, I’d be spending it here. Sparsely populated, miles of white sand beaches, and very dog friendly. I’m jealous that Marilyn and Steve are so close to this coast and plan to come back soon!

On Fat Tuesday, we skirted New Orleans (been there, done that!) and headed to Morgan City and the Lake’s End RV Park. We chose the location because it is easy driving distance to a couple of notable sights, and a day’s drive from our first stop in Texas to visit friends in the Houston area.

We trekked to Avery Island with companions, Steve and Marilyn Holland, to tour the Tabasco factory and learn about the amazing McIlhenny family who started the production of this pepper sauce. The son of the founder also was a botanist and created

Teresa at Tabasco factory

Jungle Gardens, Avery Island

a phenomenal nature garden that we toured, and helped to save the snowy egret from extinction.

A day well-spent!

The following day we toured the Whitney Museum, a former plantation that used thousands of slaves to harvest and refine sugar cane, one of the most difficult labors the South could impose on human beings. The property was purchased by John Cummings in 1990 as a real estate investment.

Black slave girl statue

Whitney Museum oaks

Slave cabin at Whitney Museum

The more he learned of the history of the plantation, the more he invested in restoration of the property, including stunning sculptures of the slave children who actually lived there, slave quarters, and the slave owners home. The museum is a tribute to those enslaved individuals who played a huge part in building the wealth of the United States.

 

I, for one, am happy to escape the heat and humidity in this part of the country. My guess is, that Cisco feels the same way. We’ve been hanging out in the air conditioning for 2 days now, and hardly want to escape. Once we visit friends in Houston next week, we’ll head north to the hill country of Texas, which is cooler and drier at this time of year.

 

 

Florida’s Forgotten Coastline

John and I traveled through Tallahassee, FL, south to the gulf coast of the Florida Panhandle. The coast is called the “forgotten coast” because it has none of the hype of the Atlantic coastline, or the massive winter tourism of the lower gulf coast. We arrived early January, giving us time to explore on our own before the arrival of long-time friends, Marilyn and Steve Holland. We arrived at the Ho Hum RV Campground on Hwy 98 with the campground located right on the white sand beach of the gulf. Cisco was in dog heaven, being able to run on the beach several times a day and hang with all the other dogs at the park.

Campground sunrise

Playing on the Beach

Carrabelle Beach

The closest town to our campsite was Carrabelle, FL, a sleepy little fishing village located 4 miles away. From our campsite in Carrabelle, we traveled either east or west for our adventures. West, we went to Apalachicola, famous for regional oysters. We heard they are in serious trouble due to over harvesting, and lack of needed fresh water from the Apalachicola River as larger cities like Atlanta, siphon off drinking water.

Oysters at Up the Creek

However, as our stay in the area continued, we were privy to oysters brought directly to our campground from local fishermen.

Boys cooking Apalachicola oysters

St. Georges Island from the Kayak

Biking St. Georges Island

We enjoyed St. George Island several times during our visit, crossing a massive, 9-mile bridge to ride bikes on the extensive bike path, kayak in the bay with our fishing rods, and to run Cisco on the white sand beaches.

 

Kayaking Wakulla River

When we ventured eastward, from Franklin County to Wakulla County, we were treated with the deep, Spanish moss forests on the Wakulla River (Wakulla, derived from an Indian word for “mysterious waters”) and the St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge. We enjoyed a guided kayaking tour of the Wakulla River with a guide, taking in alligators, manatees and the vastness of the wildlife in that area. Later, in reading about the Wakulla County wildlife opportunities, I find

Manatee in Wakulla River

there are 1500 miles of saltwater paddling trails that meander up and down this “forgotten” coastline of Florida.  If you go, talk to Jacqui at T n T Guided services in Wakulla.  Our guide Tommy, is a science teacher and guide on the side, so to speak, and has lived in the area as an outdoorsman his entire life.

This is a very pristine area of Florida, with lots of clean gulf coastline, minimal population, and an active marine fishery.

Carrabelle sunrise

Surprisingly, our campground (the Ho Hum Park), is in the middle of bear country. There are bear signs along the road, as well as many alligator warning signs! John actually saw a bear crossing the road as he traveled east one afternoon to Alligator Point!

Friday nights, we visited the Rio Carrabelle venue to listen to musicians who travel to this

Rio Carrabelle

coastline to perform. Our favorite was a trio from Florida State University Music Department. One professor on drums, one on stand-up bass, and student Mason Margut on piano. You will see more of Mason, my friends, and I’d love to see more of this World Trio!  http://www.wfsu.org/local-routes/articles/blue-rondo-a-la-turk–bmh-world-music-trio/

Our final night in the region, we drove to St. George’s Island lighthouse to

Super blue moon on St. George Island

view the Blue Super Moon!

St. George Lighthouse

This coastline, while definitely off the beaten track, is worth the time to explore! I’d say it’s one of the highlights of our trip.